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It's wrong, and should not have happened on religious grounds. After an overnight train journey from Meerut to the city of Amritsar, Khanna is finally at the border that was created all those years ago, wrenching him from his home.

Memories of partition: One man’s return to Pakistan

After an interrogation by an Indian border police officer, who makes an impassioned plea for him not to go, and similar questioning by Pakistani authorities, he is finally allowed to cross. He moves slowly, leaning on his walking stick, and peering into the distance to catch sight of the fields beyond. All those years ago he made exactly this journey, but in the opposite direction, as he and his family were evacuated in Indian military trucks. The soil is the same, and the people are the same. What follows is a whirlwind trip. The first stop is the historic Mughal city of Lahore, about 23km away, where Khanna once studied.

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He retraces his old neighbourhood of Rang Mahal carefully, finding one of the schools where he studied, and the places he used to frequent as a teenager. Someone came and told me that there is a curfew in the city, what are you doing sitting over here?

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There is no room for it to change. As he enters the street that he grew up in, he points to a small concrete building at the end of the alley. When partition occurred, refugee families on both sides of the border were often housed in homes vacated by those who had fled to the other side.

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They have made some changes to it over the years, but it is still recognisable to a visibly moved Khanna, who walks through the rooms, his eyes wide in wonder. The house is theirs now. He points to a wall over which he once jumped to escape from class, to raucous laughter from the teachers, and answers questions from students excited to meet a rare visitor from the other side of the border. On his return to Meerut, Khanna is mobbed by his children and grandchildren, anxious to hear his stories.

But he is quiet, responding to their flurry of questions with short, simple answers.

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When asked later what it felt like to be in his old town again, Khanna sounds almost melancholic. And I was just enjoying myself doing that. The same people, the same faces, everything is the same, there are no differences. He tweets AsadHashim. In this UpFront special, two former foreign ministers debate what it will take to fix India-Pakistan relations.

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Asad Hashim. It was also, perhaps, one of the most violent.


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