I shiver in the desert wind as strobe lights suddenly blind us.
Tashkent to Almaty: A Bike Touring Route
The history of civilization, no less, launches across madrassa portals and arches. Next stop: the mountainous Bibi Khanym Mosque. One of the several legends about its origins claims that Timur had the mosque built to honor his favorite wife, a Chinese beauty, and that the architect fell madly in love with her while Timur was off expanding his empire. Timur, depicted as a murderous monster in Soviet history books, transformed overnight, airbrushed into the shining national hero of independent Uzbekistan.
At a nearby teahouse, over a bracing yogurt and rice soup we pose for a selfie with a group of elderly Afghan War vets. A gold-toothed crowd of vendor ladies squeezes in to watch the transaction. I settle on three beauties—red, dove gray, sunflower yellow—50 bucks for the lot. And then things go haywire. The ladies pursue me outside, tugging hard at my sleeve, scrambling along, unfurling their textiles while running.
Yurt camp "Sputnik Navoi". Yurt camp in Uzbekistan. Aydarkul. Kyzyl-Kum desert.
I stop, look, attempt to resist, buy another suzani, then scurry along muddy lanes past flocks of sellers of quilted robes, past vats of chickpeas steaming away like locomotives—pursued by sellers and their flapping suzanis. I stop again, buy another, then more. Still they swarm.
I dash to the toilet, but they clamber along, insisting on paying my toilet fee. Finally I manage to scare them off by losing my temper, and madly we run back to Abdu, who patiently waits in a faraway parking lot. I am now the beleaguered possessor of 11 gorgeous suzanis.
Magic Land Tour to Uzbekistan
Located in Central Asia, this iconic stop along the historic Silk Road is famous for its palatial architecture, bustling bazaars, and multicultural locals. As of , U. Writer Anya von Bremzen booked her trip with U. In the capital of Uzbekistan, ancient mosques and sprawling bazaars are juxtaposed with Soviet buildings and modern skyscrapers. Come early evening, artists and performers congregate along pedestrians-only Sailgokh Street. To escape the crowds, head to Alisher Navoi National Park , replete with fountains and a man-made lake.
Just outside the city center, the Samanid Mausoleum , with its intricate brick exterior, is the family crypt of Ismail Samani, a 9th-century aristocrat. Within the city center sprawls the Fayzulla Khodjaev House Museum , the 19th-century home of a former Bukharan politician and activist, which features hand-painted carved-wood walls throughout.
In the ancient center, Registan , a collection of three mosaic-clad madrassas, or schools, are located on a large public square. On Saturdays and Sundays, Urgut market fills with vendors of handcrafted souvenirs, including colorful textiles, jewelry, and ceramics. Costa Rica Opens to All U. Sign up for the Daily Wander newsletter for expert travel inspiration and tips. Read our privacy policy. AFAR Advisor. Beaches International Beaches Islands U. Beaches Water Sports. Cities We Love.
Trip Report - Fabulous DIY Trip to Uzbekistan - Uzbekistan Forum
Holiday Travel. Road Trips. Travel for Good. Photo Essays. Travelers Choice Awards. Weekend Getaways. This old section of town preserves more than fifty historic monuments and hundreds of old houses dating back hundreds of years. As you walk through the enormous city gates, you are confronted by the glistening Islamic beacon, the Kalta-minor Minaret.
Delve deep into the town on a guided tour that embraces all of the city sites, and includes an ascent of the Islam Khodja Minaret , the highest minaret in Khiva. Venture our of Khiva today as we explore the ancient fortresses of Khorezm , built more than 2, years ago. Not without reason Toprak-Kala is called "the museum of fine arts of Ancient Khorezm".
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It is the only completely dug out monument of architecture of Khorezm. Its sizes and genius of architectural design make Toprak-Kala one of the most unique monuments of Khorezm. There is a legend that the ancient subterranean passage connects Toprak-Kala and Kyzyl-Kala. It is quite possible that Kyzyl-Kala carried out the protective functions. Ayaz-Kala was neither a city nor a settlement, it was a fortress complex where nearly 19 centuries ago boundary groups of Kushan dynasty settled down.
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Thereafter, we continue north towards the autonomous region of Karakalpakstan where our eventual stop will be the city of Nukus where we will stay for the night. We will learn insights into the invasions where the dead were buried according to Muslim rites in this gigantic ancient cemetery.
Several mausoleums, town wall remains, the tallest minaret in Central Asia and the Kyrk Molla pilgrim mount reflect the various roles of this historical city, which was praised by historical figures such as Biruni and Avicenna, Al-Farabi and Al-Khorezmi. Thereafter, we will check in into a local guest house in Kunya Urgench. Get set for an interesting day that will end up in fire and flames literally as we hop onto our 4WD vehicle pass surreal landscapes 4.
No one was injured, but there was gas coming out of the hole.
Travel, Your Way
Fearing that the hole would lead to the release of poisonous gases, the team decided to burn it off. It was hoped that the fire would use all the fuel within few days, but weeks, months and years passed, and it is still burning today. Fast forward to present-day, it has become an iconic spot in Turkmenistan tourism, an unbelievable photography spot. We will set up camp close by the crater, enjoying a night sleeping under the stars, chattering with fellow travelers and BBQ the night away. We leave Darvaza today for a drive into Ashgabat - the fascinating capital city of Turkmenistan where en route, stop at the fortress ruins of Geokdepe , site of the last battle in the late 19th Century between the Turkmen and the Russians.
In honor of the people who perished during the fierce battle, the marvelous blue-domed Mosque was erected inside the fortress, making a little stop to see stylized Muslim inscriptions and astonishing decoration skillfully painted. That evening we arrived in Almaty, after km of exhausting hills and hot weather we were not looking our best — and punishingly the couple we were visiting live to the South of the city up the mountain and so we had a very long, sweaty and polluted finishing climb to the house.
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Anja is fully embracing Kazakh life and has been feeding us horse and we also went to a local restaurant where they set a whole beast I think it was a sheep on fire!! Almaty is only km from the Chinese border and we feel our batteries have been charged ready for this daunting leg. We have a 90 day visa to cycle the 5,km ish! The recent long days in the saddle and milestones reached days on the road, the 10,km mark and our first thousand pounds for our charities!
I think of you coming home and flicking a switch to boil water, getting cold fresh milk from the fridge and making a cup of tea. Having a deliciously cooked meal and listening to some music. Then taking a hot steamy shower and letting the water engulf you, the stresses and worries of the day washing away. Clean, warm and safe with loved ones near by you sink into a soft bed surrounded by fluffy pillows and a duvet. Email Address:. Sign me up! Supported by:. Posts Comments. Email Subscription Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.
Email Address: Sign me up! Post-trip updates: Since we returned home, Ryan has been posting new photos here:.